Bao Vinh Ancient Town, Hue: Old Trading Port and Riverside Breakfasts

If you've already been through the Imperial City and the royal tombs, Bao Vinh Ancient Town will show you a different side of Hue. This is the Hue of merchants, boat landings and rows of old nha ruong (traditional wooden houses) sitting quietly along the Perfume River. It was once the bustling trading port of the 19th-century imperial capital, and later became known to many young Vietnamese thanks to the film Dreamy Eyes (Mắt biếc). A morning stroll, a look at the murals and a hot bowl of noodles by the river is a gentle way to get a feel for everyday life in Hue.

Best Time to Visit

• February to April is the best stretch. The weather is cool, there's little rain and the early sun is soft, making it pleasant for walking and taking photos.
• May to August is hot and sunny, with some very muggy days. Go between around 6 and 8 a.m. or in the late afternoon.
• September to December is Hue's rainy season, and the riverside area can flood when the water rises. The town still has its own melancholy beauty, but check the weather before you go.
• Time of day: early morning is the best. The river is calm, locals gather at the market and breakfast stalls start opening. This is exactly the spirit of "breakfast by the Perfume River".

Getting There

Bao Vinh lies northeast of the Citadel, downstream along the Perfume River toward the sea. It's only about 15–20 minutes from the city center.

• Rented motorbike or bicycle: the most flexible option. You can follow the riverbank from the Citadel area out to Bao Vinh; the road is flat and easy.
• Taxi or ride-hailing app: convenient for families with young children. Arrange a pickup for the return trip or book through an app when needed.
• Cyclo: some cyclo routes around the Citadel can go out to Bao Vinh by arrangement. Agree on the price clearly before getting in.
• Walking around town: the old town stretches along Bao Vinh Street by the river. The core area takes about 1–2 hours at a leisurely pace, so it's best to park and walk.

Highlights

Traces of the Old Riverside Port

The Perfume River here is deep enough for merchant boats to dock. Thanks to this, Bao Vinh grew into a major port town serving the capital of Phu Xuan in the 19th century. After the capital fell in 1885, the town was ravaged and gradually faded into quiet. Standing at the river landing, you can still picture the busy cargo boats of the past.

Rows of Old Wooden Houses

According to local information, the town still has around 14 old nha ruong houses. These houses feature carved wooden frames, interlocking yin-yang tiled roofs and wide verandas. Look out for the wooden columns darkened by time and the traditional ban khoa panel doors. Many are still family homes, so only admire them from outside unless you're invited in.

Tu Giac Houses – Hallmarks of a Merchant Street

Besides the nha ruong, Bao Vinh also preserves a few nha tu giac (shophouses). These have narrow façades and roofs facing the street, ideal for living and trading under one roof. They clearly reflect the town's market-street character, quite different from the garden homes in the villages around Hue.

Murals Telling the Story of Craft Villages

Along the lanes and the boat landing area on Bao Vinh Street, you'll find murals depicting the history of the craft villages and life in the old port. It's a favorite photo spot for young travelers and families. Following the murals is also the easiest way to understand how this neighborhood once made its living.

The House from Dreamy Eyes

An old house on the street was a filming location for Dreamy Eyes (2019). It has since become a café and regularly draws visitors for photos. Come early to avoid crowds, and order a drink if you want to stay and take photos for a while.

How to Spot Houses Under Restoration

Some nha ruong have been fully restored, while others are still under construction. You can tell by these signs:

• Scaffolding, tarps over the roof or barriers around the house.
• A construction information board set up in front of the door.
• New, light-colored wood mixed with old, dark wood.
• Roof tiles taken down and stacked neatly in the yard.

If you see these signs, don't wander into the work site. Freshly restored houses usually have clean roof tiles and wooden columns, making them very photogenic.

The River Landing and Early Morning Life

Don't just stay in the streets; head down to the water's edge. In the morning you'll see locals casting nets, washing vegetables or rowing small boats. The local authorities also plan to build a riverside square and pedestrian street, so the area may look different in a few years.

Food to Try

Bao Vinh isn't a bustling food street. But around the market and along the riverside road there are cheap breakfast stalls run by locals. Pick the busy ones with low plastic tables and stools; that's usually the most reliable sign.

• Bun bo Hue (spicy beef noodle soup): a familiar breakfast dish, with a broth fragrant with lemongrass and fermented shrimp paste and a fiery kick.
• Banh canh ca loc (thick noodle soup with snakehead fish): chewy noodles, sweet snakehead fish and a sprinkle of red chili powder. A morning bowl usually costs about 20,000–25,000 VND.
• Com hen (rice with baby clams): eaten dry and mixed well or with clam broth poured over. It's light, good for a late breakfast or lunch.
• Bun mam nem (rice vermicelli with fermented anchovy sauce): served with pig's ear, fermented pork and Vietnamese pork sausage. Usually around 20,000–25,000 VND per bowl.
• Banh xeo ca kinh (crispy pancakes with rabbitfish): the rabbitfish is caught in the Tam Giang Lagoon, with firm, sweet flesh. If you have time, head on toward Chuon Village market (My Thuong Ward) early in the morning to try it.
• Snacks at Dong Ba Market: on your way back to the center, stop at Dong Ba Market. You'll find banh nam (flat rice dumplings), banh bot loc (tapioca dumplings), banh it (sticky rice cakes) and che heo quay (sweet soup with roast pork), usually about 10,000–20,000 VND per serving.
• Ca phe muoi (salt coffee): Hue's signature drink. Sipping a cup on the veranda of an old house after breakfast is perfect.

On a budget, about 150,000 VND per person is enough to eat your fill of 5–7 dishes in a day if you stick to local eateries.

Tips & Notes

• Go early: arrive before 8 a.m. for nice light, cool weather and to catch the breakfast stalls. Many sell out early.
• Respect residents: most old houses are still lived in. Ask permission before photographing people or stepping over the threshold, and keep your voice down.
• Bring small cash: cheap eateries usually accept only cash or bank transfer. Ask the price before ordering if there's no price list.
• Combine your itinerary: Bao Vinh pairs easily with the Citadel, Dong Ba Market or a trip toward Thuan An Beach and the Tam Giang Lagoon in the same half-day.
• Watch for the flood season: from around September to December, check the weather forecast. Stay away from the riverbank when the water is rising.
• International visitors: vendors speak little English. Have photos of dishes ready or use a translation app, and say clearly if you can't eat spicy food.
• Check current conditions: the town is undergoing restoration and upgrades. Some sections may be under construction, so keep your walking route flexible.